The whole route by now.

Today's route

:-)

This road is already in the village Castel Volturno

Are these fields cultivated?

Terrible :-(

Day 47 - July 14, 2018 - Saturday

This night my bicycle has to stay outside locked up to a tree.

 

On this day I was indifferent how to go to Naples. Either using the road through the country or the coast road.

 

Only in the last moment I decided spontaneously to take the coast road. The main reason for this decision was to heavy traffic on the road (SS) and the very high temperatures. 

 

So I had to change direction from south to west and saw the sea after about 20 km.

 

The decision was good and I had only few traffic. Some little climbs and some headwind but a smooth ride through the countryside along a river. 

 

The coast road was a freeway (SS) with lots of traffic about 1 km behind the coastline.

 

Every time on these heavy traffic roads I'm in an inner hurry and stress and also I try to avoid inhaling. But stress and holding the breath isn't possible. So I try to avoid this situation.

 

On the map I saw a little road directly behind the beach or about 200 meters behind. So I tried. At the beginning it was pretty nice. After the road had turned behind the beach there was more and more trash. Absolutely terrible. Also there was little houses, looking like holiday homes. Nobody lived there and they were in a ruinous condition.

But some of them were occupied.

More and more black people came along. The road changed to a dirt track. 

There were also proper fields. Nothing was growing on them but they were obviously cultivated. It was a sandy soil so I believe the crops were carrots or artichokes.

 

Next I saw a great and nice holiday resort with wonderful old and high parasol pins.

 

But also this resort was abandoned and the access forbidden with high fences around.

 

I felt a bit angsty and drove back to the free way. 

After about two km driving there my I was catched by a nice and sexy lady with raven black hair.

 

But I had to look twice. She was sitting on a plastic chair 5 m to the road with a little parking space. Unbelievable there was a prostitute! I saw a car stopping there but not more cause I had to concentrate on the traffic and damaged road. 

 

This night my bicycle has to stay outside locked up to a tree.

 

On this day I was indifferent how to go to Naples. Either using the road through the country or the coast road.

 

Only in the last moment I decided spontaneously to take the coast road. The main reason for this decision was to heavy traffic on the road (SS) and the very high temperatures. 

 

So I had to change direction from south to west and saw the sea after about 20 km.

 

The decision was good and I had only few traffic. Some little climbs and some headwind but a smooth ride through the countryside along a river. 

 

The coast road was a freeway (SS) with lots of traffic about 1 km behind the coastline.

 

Every time on these heavy traffic roads I'm in an inner hurry and stress and also I try to avoid inhaling. But stress and holding the breath isn't possible. So I try to avoid this situation.

 

On the map I saw a little road directly behind the beach or about 200 meters behind. So I tried. At the beginning it was pretty nice. After the road had turned behind the beach there was more and more trash. Absolutely terrible. Also there was little houses, looking like holiday homes. Nobody lived there and they were in a ruinous condition.

But some of them were occupied.

More and more black people came along. The road changed to a dirt track. 

There were also proper fields. Nothing was growing on them but they were obviously cultivated. It was a sandy soil so I believe the crops were carrots or artichokes.

 

Next I saw a great and nice holiday resort with wonderful old and high parasol pins.

 

But also this resort was abandoned and the access forbidden with high fences around.

 

I felt a bit angsty and drove back to the free way. 

After about two km driving there my I was catched by a nice and sexy lady with raven black hair.

 

But I had to look twice. She was sitting on a plastic chair 5 m to the road with a little parking space. Unbelievable there was a prostitute! I saw a car stopping there but not more cause I had to concentrate on the traffic and damaged road. 

 

The buildings in ruined conditions, so much garbage along the roads, lots of black people, obvious poverty, heavy loud and reckless traffic so I understood why Lega Nord (Matteo Salvini) and M5S (Luigi the Maio) won the elections. 

The buildings in ruined conditions, so much garbage along the roads, lots of black people, obvious poverty, heavy loud and reckless traffic so I understood why Lega Nord (Matteo Salvini) and M5S (Luigi the Maio) won the elections. 

 

Today's route of about 52 km. Very warm today and lots of traffic. And more or less straight ahead.

Nice waterfall in the village Isola del Liri

Huckepack ;-)

Day 46 - July 13, 2018 - Friday

The night in the hotel was terrible because the springs of the spring mattress pressed into my rips and hurt a lot. 

In the middle of the night I couldn't sleep anymore so I inflated my camping air bed put it onto the spring mattress and covered it with the sheets. 

Then I slept well again. 

This was a really pity because it was a nice, clean and comfortable room. 

Today's route of 64 km along river Liri to Sora.

A look ahead. I have to go through this mountains and hope it's only downhill ;-)

On the other side of the pass high planes too.

View back to Avezzano and the surrounding high planes.

Day 45 - July 12, 2018 - Thursday

The breakfast at the B&B was Italian, means sweet, sweet, sweeties ;-)

I had to drive through Avezzano to its Westside and a climb of about 300 meters and a downhill to come to river Liri. I will follow this valley softly downwards. 

At the end of the city I saw a bicycle shop and asked whether they would change the brake pads on my front disk brake because they were dangerous thin. 

The man did it within 4 minutes :-) and would get only 8 Euro! 

Now I felt well and save again! 

Today's tour. Campo Imperatore - 81 km to Sulmona and than with the railway to Avezzano.

Railway

After arriving at Sulmona I took the train to Avezzano and avoided a climb of about 1.000 meters. This was a modern electric railway. The distance was about 65 km and it took 1,25 hours. 

"kisses" is a nice name for a railway station.

Looks nearly the same than at home. But the temperature is quite different ;-)

The cans showes that they are working on reconstructing after earthquake 2009.

I am to early to get flashed ;-)

Gran Sasso high planes

View back :-)

Ready for take off ;-)

Day 44 - July 11, 2018 - Wednesday

Today I got up at 8 :-) 

Looking out of the window made me surprised because it was grey. The whole Ostello was covered in fog so I couldn't enjoy the view over the valley to L'Aquila. 

So it was perfect timing to climb Corno Grande yesterday the only possible day. 

Again a cafe lungho and Brioches and two pieces of an anguria because they were so wonderful red and seemed to be sweet. 

What to dress. Of course suncream was necessary. 

Sulmona was my aim. That means 1.700 m down. Also some climbs but only about 150 m. 

It was terrible cold with heavy winds. 

Pizzo d'Intermesoli has a hole. I'm really curious to go there. But I had to less power ;-)

"Schusternägelen" = Frühlingsenzian = Gentiana verna.

There are lots of snow fields.

I couldn't see the western coast line but there is a huge lake. Must be "Lago di Compotosto"

Adriatic coast line.

Corno Grande - 2.912 meters - after about 2 and a quarter of a hour. An oregano was so kind to take the photo. A man from USA Oregon ;-)

Arnica Montana

Campo Imperatore

High plan in the morning.

Finally: Gran Sasso d'Italia.

Day 43 - July 10, 2018 - Tuesday

I got up at 06:30 prepared myself and went down to the bar to see whether breakfast was ready. Yes it was. I took one caffe lungho and 2 Brioches. It was a typical Italian breakfast cakes or Brioches. 

So I started at seven. 

Soon I saw that today Corno Grande isn't shy. 

Excellent weather blue sky but quite gusty winds. So I used my wind-stopper cap. 

View back to L'Aquila.

Done! Happy and proud :-)

Finish :-)

The Gran Sasso highlands.

Wasn't he a doping case?

Well the Giro guys were here too ;-)

After a downhill with heavy headwinds the last 7 km.

700 meters are done.

As I red on this poster some call this landscape "Little Tibet".

Shy again ;-)

Day 42 - July 9, 2018 - Monday

Today will be the greatest challenge ;-) 

The easy way ;-)

This science institute is at the top to verify the theory around dark matter. They try to find the WIMPs. Wimp is a weak person. But the abbreviation means Weakly Interacting Massive Particles. XENON dark matter project is the name.

Now I can see tomorrow's aim "Campo Imperatore" 2.100 m. It's also possible to go there with the ropeway.

Shy Gran Sasso will not show his face ;-)

Day 41 - July 8, 2018 - Sunday

Now I'll go upward. 

Today warmup with 500 meters to an altitude of 1.100. 

Tomorrow another 1.000 meters to 2.100 with the bicycle. 

And overmorrow 800 to the summit hiking. 

I enjoy this balustrade.

But there is a lot to do.

Basilica di San Bernardino. The bank Monte dei Paschi di Siena has immediately after the earthquake promised to reconstruct.

Day 40 - July 7, 2018 - Saturday

Breakfast at Piazza Duomo where 3 sides are reconstructed. 

This is the main place but even here it is nearly deserted. 

Lots of cranes means work in progress.

On one door I have seen the name plate "Dottore in Commercialisation" (tax advicer) and I tried to imagine what he did on the 7th of April 2009, the day after the earthquake. Computer, files, furniture, data inside the damaged building and perhaps not accessible because of the danger of a collapse of the building.

Another sheated old building.

A thunderstorm brews up.

This water is my water source. The fountain's water isn't potable.

Fontana delle 99 Cannelle. The fountain of the 99 tubes. 99 is L'Aquila's number because L'Aquila was built in 1230 through the integration of 99 villages by emperor Friedrich II. Also the town halls clock tolls 99 times.

On the left you see the logo of the restaurant I was in for dinner. My direct view during the dinner was this completely sheated building.

So quiet these streets. A depressing atmosphere.

Another one :-(

L'Aquila - first view :-( the 2009 earthquake. Of course MP Silvio Berlusconi was here a few days after the catastrophy and of course he expected money to come for the reconstructions ....

10:52 just in time. An "oil burner" (diesel engine).

Waiting - hopefully this is platform 2. I didn't see any numbers ;-)

Day 39 - July 6, 2018 - Friday

Today I had only 300 m to the railway station. But I was a bit nervous because of train and bike ;-) at the station there was no staff so I tried and bought a ticket for me to L'Aquila (1,5 hours to go) and paid 3,90!!! And I paid with card cause the machine had no slot for coins! 

Well, everything worked fine and I did about 600 metres in altitude relaxing and enjoying the wonderful landscape. 

Also I observed the SS17 because I suspected there will be lots of traffic. There was nearly no traffic. Some lorries and some limousines. So I was a bit sad not biking. 

Today's tour from Amelia to Narni to Terni To Rieti. 70 km.

Looks like a bycicle boat. But also with a number. Seems that they use it for races too.

Funny little boat. More a nut shell ;-)

I have never seen such curious boat driving. Looks like a serious training for a race.

Rieti - Bridge over river Velino.

Cristal clear water in this creek. Similar to Tyrolean creeks.

View over the basin of Rieti my today's aim.

Lucky guy today :-) this nice village wasn't to climb.

Lago di Piediluco - with the water of river Velino that spends his water also for the waterfall

Imposing.

View from top.

The lovers view was quite wet ;-)

This tunnel leeds to "Balcone degli Innamorati" the balcony of lover.

Well, the idea is one...but the reality... In this case there were 90 % of the climb stairs. So I had to go three times to carry luggage and bike the 165 m up :-( and payed 10 Euro for the permit.

Day 38 - July 5, 2018 - Thursday

Today I started with low level of energy. It seems that yesterday's trip was exhausting. 

But today only about 400 metres elevation were to do. 

After about 10 km I arrived at Narni. Further 15 km I arrived at Terni (110.000 inhabitants) were I looked for a park bench to take a rest. Behind Terni 300 m in altitude were waiting on me. 

Reading about Terni showed me the "Cascata delle Marmor", the with 165 metres the highest man-made waterfall on earth. I decided to go there because my map shows paths in the area so I hoped to avoid the road to come to Marmore the little village above. 

Today's track. 61 km. 600 m elevation.

Amelia sunset.

With narrow streets too.

Downtown Amelia

My today's target village. It was a wonderful downhill to the bottom of the town at river Rio Grande ;-) in the medieval it was quite important to build a village on top of a hill. But for me it meant dismount and wheel the final and very steep 100-metres-climb :-(

Ante portas Lugnano

Down town Lugnano

Lugnano in Teverina

Alviano's castle

Final view over lake Bolsena

Day 37 - July 4, 2018 - Wednesday

Also today I took a morning swim in lake Bolsena. Strengthened by a good breakfast I went up the 200 m to bagnoregio again. After this climb I could enjoy 400 m of downhill but the next climb was 300 m with ardent sun. 

Everyone loves Pinocchio and his father :-)

All build on and with tuff. So the erosion is going on.

In 1990 lived only about 10 elderly people there. Than Americans and some enthusiasts for nature and artists found this location and bough ruins and refurbished them. Nowadays many people are living here in a secondary residence.

And here the view back to the village Lubriano :-)

After extra 5 km by bike I came from the regular side paying 3 Euros for the entrance :-)

This was my aim ;-)

Arrived at the bottom I faced a clear barrier. Nevertheless I tried it. After about 500 meters I had to turn because the way was overgrown by especially blackberries. So I took the second possible way to the left. But even here I had to turn after facing a barrier too.

My plan was to go with the bike to Lubriano (on the opposite side of the valley) and make a 6-hour hike that I had found in the internet and see Civita di Bagnoregio as well as the special rocks in the surrounding. The track started with a climb-down of nearly 200 m.

"strada deformata" It's really bad here. For me it's terribly do drive on this bad roads. With the whole luggage I cannot evade that quick especially if there is some traffic. Then I have to go through. That means some sharp blows. If I am to late to stand up also blows to my spine. But congrats to KTM. The bicycle and the wheels (Schwalbe) make it.

Day 36 - July 3, 2018 - Tuesday

Started with a swim in lake Bolsena (15 m from hotel) and a good breakfast. It was an overcast day. I took the bike to go to Civita di Bagnoregio. 

Today's tour of about 45 km.

And after dinner a view over the lake from the castle photographed before.

After a nice tour along the west lakeside with many dirt roads and a relaxing swim I arrived at Bolsena.

Going to Bolsena (northeast) round the lake starting here with Capodimonte.

... At Marta with its French twin city.

My first view onto Lake Bolsena....

On my way to Marta (Bolsena south shore) I was surprised that this wind mill was turning so fast although I didn't feel any winds. Means I had tailwinds ;-)

Day 35 - July 2, 2018 - Monday

From my host I've got a cake for breakfast! 

So well prepared I went to lake Bolsena. 

Way for Tuscania with a "stopover" at Vulci.

My favorite :-) he should be than I am ;-)

Double pizza :-)

Nice little Tuscania. Today's route was bad planned. I choosed a SP that means, normally a low frequented route. But Sunday afternoon means many Italians enjoyed swimming in the sea. And now are on their way back home. So I saw nothing else than the white line at the right side of the roadway.

A nice little lake with a cascade at the Vulci area. Bathing possible :-) and also climbing through the waterfall.

Mozzarella di Buffala :-)

The western entrance to Vulci in about 700 BC.

As great the Roman roads were, a carrier on a horse back needed 10 days to bring his massage from Innsbruck to Rome and other 10 days to bring the answer back. Donald J. Trump would come to cool down ;-)

Just arrived ;-)

It's always the same with these bike path: they end up in dirt tracks ;-)

It started with an asphalted roadway and ended on a dirt track

To come there was exhausting. I had to cross the second ford on this trip. But there were some stones so I could pass with dry boots.

Day 34 - July 1, 2018 - Sunday

A swim in the sea in the morning was a good start for this hot day. Only about 7 km from my campsite the "Giardini dei Tarocchi" are located. I arrived at 11 am. The Giardini open at 14:30 :-( waiting wasn't possible because it was really hot there without shadows and I had to do my schedule. 

But there was another sight: Vulci one of 12 Etruscan cities. It was absolutely remarkable. I was very impressed by the "domus" a large, noble living house. 

The area was very hot nearly without any shelter. 

From sea to sea ;-)

Saturday evening!

My plan was to go to Orbetello and take an accommodation via booking. But of course it is Saturday. Nothing available. Now chance. So I drove 65 to a campsite near Chiarone Scalo. And hope the Disco beats are not that heavy ;-) 

Believe it or not, the dirt path ended directly at Via Aurelia! So it was easy to cross this "border" too :-)

The railway obstacle is done. To save my head I had to wheel the bike ;-)

Day 33 - June 30, 2018 - Saturday

So I left with direction orbetello.

Night on the beach

About two hours after sun was gone moon appeared. It seemed to be full moon. So I had a lot to see. But I was really tired so I felt asleep again. I slept well but of course not that deep than at home. In the end I slept until 8 cause the alarm began to ring. Who did this?? Well, the sun has already appeared. There was no winds and nearly no waves. But these myriads of tiny little mosquitoes were ready. They are about 1 mm. They love black like the zeze fly. Sometimes they bite that feels like a real mosquitoe. But today there are a lot of little red points on my skin. So I got up and a swim in the cold sea. I put everything together and carried it to the parking space and went for the bike that I had hidden in the forest together with a bottle of water. 

After the obligatory Cappuccini it was to find a way back and cross the railway and Via Aurelia ;-) 

 

It seems Italy is the land of borders ;-) 

Sunset! On the left hand side you can see Elba.

From inside ;-)

My hotel for this night ;-)

Swampland 2

Parco naturale di Maremma - swampland 1

View from the hiking path to my beach.

I was glad that I didn't meet wild boar and viper. But this nice cicada. Their clittering is permanently loud. More than a jackhammer.

Cala di Forno - the beach where I took a bath. It's shallow too.

Cala di Forno.

This was a very nice path on the sunny side. So pretty warm as I like it. It smelled wonderful especially the mirth.

I would not be on the beach for so many hours so I decided to walk to the next beach. A trip of about 5,5 km one way. There was a little climb at the beginning (about 50 m) and of course a climb-down at the end.

The beach the same than yesterday. The weather perfectly :-)

Day 32 - June 29, 2018 - Friday

After relaxing night and drying all the clothes I'm going to start to the beach again :-) 

Canceled

The clouds grew the thunder rolled and the island Giglio - about 30 km off shore -I couldn't see anymore. I dressed up with my rain protecting clothes and my wind-stopper cap because the wind was cold. 

I decided to cancel and took a room at Alberese and drove 12 km there. 

And will try again tomorrow. 

This shelter I choosed for the night and strengthened the side to avoid the heavy wind.

Here I am ;-) wonderful beach less people. I carried all my luggage here and stored the bycicle save within the pine forest. But I was afraid of the weather and possible thunderstorm and rain. My first night sleeping in the sleeping bag on the beach should be dry ;-)

At the beach I decided to go back and forward to the south. But then I saw this perfectly signed bike path trough the pine forest to a beach about 1 km south. And decided to go there.

After buying lots of cheese, bread, olives and water and after a track with lots of headwinds the first view to the sea at Marina di Alberese. The weather looks crazy against the sunny forecast of my weather app.

... But possible to go through while a lorry passes the Via Aurelia ;-)

It's forbidden...

Landscape near my last B&B

Day 30 - June 28, 2018 - Thursday

After a fine and relaxing night and a good breakfast I'll try to go to Alberese and to the beach. But "try". Because there are three obstacles: number one: river Ombrone. Second: railway. Third: SS1 - Via Aurelia - I kind of highway where bycicles are forbidden. But my map shows one possible track, more path under the bridge of the SS1. 

My today's said I shall send him an info whether the way is possible ;-) 

Yesterday's (46 km) and today's (65 km) route.

View from my B&B today. Only 15 km to the sea (beeline)

From Montalcino it started with a climb of approximately 100 m. Then came the downhills but also some soft climbs. By the way: Montalcino means "Steineichenberg" (mountain of the holly oaks) and on my way where lots of these trees. Also forests. I like these trees. And after a while the cicadas started to spend their typical sound. First-time on my journey.

Well done.

Zen in the art of bycicle maintenance :-)

Day 29 - June 27, 2018 - Wednesday

I slept very well in the albergo. Meanwhile the back tyre of my bike lost all its air. I tried to pump up the tyre but it didn't hold the air. So I decided to take Brioches and Cappuccini to strengthen myself. Next to the albergo was a little parc that spended shadow and also a little fountain to find the hole. 

After about 30 years I saw that I knew what to do. The hole was on the inside of the tube so it was clear that yesterday's pumping at the gasoil station was the reason. I tried to inflate 5 bar - too much! 

After a short while I was ready to start to Grosetto. 

And the view in direction Mediterranean sea.

And enjoy a glass of Brunello di Montalcino :-)

After 46 km and about 500 m in altitude I'm going to arrive.

Famous for its vines :-)

From church to church from prayer to prayer

Via Francigena a pilgrimage from Canterbury to Rome.

EuroVelo 5 also Via Francigena (Frankenberg) = dirt road.

Day 28 - June 26, 2018 - Tuesday

After 3 days of rest I'm ready to go to Montalcino :-) 

Meanwhile the Sienesen were busy and prepared the ground for the Palio.

San Gimignano = little Manhattan ;-) shows what competition is good for. The families there had the competition who has the largest tower. Nowadays someone may ask who has the largest button ;-)

Day 27 - June 25, 2018 - Monday

Another day in Siena with a sightseeing trip to San Gimignano. 

Workplace in the 14th century.

From behind into the nave to the altar.

From under the rooftop into the nave and the dome.

A view from under the rooftop to the leeded glass above the altar.

Enchanting floor marble work.

A scene of a floor marble work showing the instability. With her right feet on a ball the other one on a boat.

One of the floor marble inlay work showing the wolf feeding Romulus and Remus.

Seeing the inside I was overwhelmed.

Siena cathedral - Duomo di Siena. The front.

Here I was in Contrada caterpillar's district. In Siena there are 17 Contrade. Within this district people live high solidarity so there is the lowest rate of criminality of Italy - Wikipedia says.

Located at Piazza Salimbeni.

In this house the bank was founded in 1472 and so it is the oldest currently existing bank!

Monte de Paschi di Siena - since I decided to go to Siena it was clear to look for this bank!

The whole day I heard loud percussionis from different sides of the city but never saw the company. While enjoying dinner on my wonderful terrace I heard again and decided to find them. Down in the streets I heard nothing so I followed the direction I've heard from the terrace. Soon I heard the drums and saw the company walking into a little church. They were the cantrada unicorn going for the consecration of the flag

Day 26 - June 24, 2018 - Sunday

Yesterday was an absolute lazy day. I had no wishes for sightseeing so I hung up :-) in the afternoon I went to to the laundry by bike to do the necessary laundry. On the way home I bought food for dinner. It was 6 pm as I took place on the terrace to enjoy the sun and the meal. 

There was already a young man 33 in age with a cigar and a bottle of wine and one glass also enjoying the wonderful terrace. 

On the one table me eating cheese, bread and olives only with my knife with any dishes drinking an isotonic drink from the bottle. 

The young man with his worthy glass and wine and cigar. 

So we started a nice conversation that lasted until sunset. 

He is working with Adidas at Bamberg but born in jersey island. So he could improve his German and I could improve my english ;-) 

He told that he loves Bamberg and decided especially to go there and live there. It admire his way of life and consequence. 

He is also a great football fan. So he was a bit nervous cause of yesterday's match between Germany and Sweden. After the first half he was demoralized. 

Well, after sunset I started my gelato tour to piazza del Campo where I was walking and staying around watching the fantastic flight of the hundreds of swallows and enjoying this impressive location. 

The icream was enjoyed, the birds has finished their feeding flights so I decided to go for a beer at "La Diana" a small and local brewery that the Bamberg guy has mentioned. 

He was sitting there following the match on one of several screens. 

I asked him as a beer expert for the best beer and took a glass of Pia a sort that the brewery had brewed. It tasted good and smelled especially too. It was minute 95 of the match as he jumped up and cried loudly ;-) 2:1 victory for Germany. 

I ordered another glass cause I was really thursty then went home to sleep. 

So I did but woke up at about half past twelve cause of the Disco beats. 

One the one hand it's exhausting to go up the 6 stories to my room but interesting how easy the same way is for the sound. 

So I started reading about Siena and was happy that the music stopped at 01:45 so I could sleep :-) 

And the view straight ahead shows basilica Cateriniana.

A view to the left with Campanile of Siena cathedral.

Day 25 - June 23, 2018 - Saturday

A day to rest at Siena. I got up early (07:30 ;-)) to see the see, hear, smell, feel awakening Siena. 

Late night Siena.

Sunset only 5 minutes later than at home.

Another view.

Marvelous B&B on the rooftop...

The sky blue again. Here I am :-)

... I got shelter under a highway bridge. About 15 minutes heavy rains the sun dried up the road.

After the water from below it came from above. After dressing with rain protection clothes...

I took a cutoff knowing that will be a dirt road. But this was a big surprise ;-) so I took my shoes off and wheeled through the creek. No problem :-)

As predicted it was an overcast day. I prefer the sun but to advantage was that I needed no sun cream.

... after two delicious Cappuccini and two Brioches I was ready to pedal to Siena. It should be a 60-km tour. With the help of Google maps I found a route without extrem gradients.

Day 24 - June 22, 2018 - Friday

This night I used 2 mosquitoes plugs and slept very well. There was no breakfast included so... 

1.000

By now I have done 1.000 km :-) 

Longer than expected

At the beginning of today's tour I was sure that will be an easy day because I expected more or less downhill. Especially because I could follow the bike path EV 5 (EuroVelo no. 5 from London to Rome). So I decided at Pontassieve to do about 80 km and booked a B&B there. 

But about 7 km on EV5 I had a climb of approximately 200 meters in altitude. It was really hot so I sweated a lot. There were Many ups and downs. There were no signs of EV5 and only normal roads with sometimes heavy traffic. Later the bike path was alongside river Arno but only dirt roads. Sometimes I had to wheel the bike. The path became more and more impassable so I switched to the normal road. At the end I had some troubles with the navigation of Google maps so I did some extra km and arrived at half past 6 pm ;-) 

Today's tour - 83 km. Sorry my cellphone's red filter was on.

Now the agriculture change from fruits to olives.

Then I followed river Sieve to village Pontassieve where it flows into river Arno. Arno flows to Florence and Pisa before the river flows into the sea.

First Cappuccino rest after a 7 km downhill at Borgo San Lorenzo.

Day 23 - June 21, 2018 - Thursday

After a long sleep and a good breakfast I am going to start again :-) the direction now is: Siena. 

Here the whole route by now - about 930 km.

Today's route to little village Ronta. I'm totally happy that I was able to do it :-)

Not only car racing in Mugello ;-)

After another 4 km and 100 meters in altitude the second pass. After this exhausting climb I could enjoy a fast downhill. My app showed a speed max of 56.3 kmh. At the beginning of the downhill I had to dress because I was totally wet sweated and it was a bit cold.

After about 40 km and 1.000 meters in altitude.

A view back

A summit cross I have to climb ;-) it wasn't the final peak but after a few kilometers I reached.

And here "Knabenkraut" an orchid. And: I was accompanied by hundreds of wonderful and different butterflies.

The vegetation is similar to ours. But here are almost only deciduous trees what I prefer and of course some of these great parasol pines.

So I can go ;-)

Day 22 - June 20, 2018 - Wednesday

Yesterday I observed the road (SP 302) to see how much traffic will be. And I was a little bit afraid because it seemed to be much traffic and also some lorries. Today at the breakfast the waiter said there will be no lorries at the end of the valley before it goes up. 

Such an enchanting outlook from the castle in Riolo Terme, isn't it? It gives an idea of Tuscany! And the best was I had my dinner there on a stone bench that had stored the sun of the whole day and transfered it to me :-) The dinner contained "formaggio, pane croccante e olive dolce". Later there came some tiger mosquitoes to take their supper. For some of them it was their last supper ;-)

The paintings on the wall reminds me of Brussels ;-)

Place with outlook for the bike on my rooms terrace :-) and hopefully secure too!

After 58 km I arrived at Riolo Terme.

Are they serious? Yes! Google finds "Birravezzana" the "Beer Festival" at the end of July with beer from Munich :-)

It looks like mountains ;-) there were some ups and downs at the end of today's track. But not more than 50 meters. The corn land changed to fruits land like apricots and peach but also garlic.

Neither Estragon nor Wladimir I saw. So I decided not to wait ;-)

Day 21 - June 19, 2018 - Tuesday

Now I'm gonna cross the Apennines Mountains. Today only 100 meters. 

The tower of Basilica Sant'Apollinare Nuovo erected in the 6th century by Theodoric the Ostrogoth. It has a height of 38 m so it is 10 m less high than the tower Pomposa but looks like that one.

The fishermen's road sign.

This is an alabaster glass in the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia

Marvelous marble from Siena.

Another mosaic of the same church. If you imagine some similarities, was built in the 6th century.

Mosaic on the floor of church San Vitale

Day 20

Ravenna sightseeing. Visiting four of the eight buildings of the 5th and 6th century listed as UNESCO cultural heritage 

Raven(na)

So the origin of the name Ravenna is clear ;-) A raven probably flew over the ancient cemetery of the Goths at the coriander field after their defeat by the Byzantine army and the death of King Theodoric the Great (526 AD) - - - but that's only one idea! 

Here today's and previous tours

Lagoon of Comacchio

.... I had to pay the ferry man!

To bridge river Reno...

Flamingo watching

Now I am sitting her along the "highway" looking down to the flamingos and their majestic behavior. And, the fortune was on my side: two of them flew a short distance so I could see the red feathers on their wings. 

I am so happy watching these flamingos while they walk through the shallow water their heads in the ground :-)

Flamingos :-)

The lagoon "highway". There are lots of birds but I cannot see them because I have to concentrate to stay within the lane ;-) for 10 km.but I heard on crying: cuckoo cuckoo cuckoo :-)

Day 19

After breakfast in Comacchio another "little Venice" I go to the lagoon of Comacchio. 

Campsite

First time on this trip in my tiny little tent at a beach campsite next to Camacchio (Ravenna). With high life disco on the right a good frequented road on the left side and a 

A beach I have ever dreamed of ;-)

And here the wonderful mosaic floor with insets of prized marble that date back to between the 6th and 12th centuries.

The view to the backside shows the portico and a Giotto

The altar of Church of Saint Mary

The abbeys refectory with figured paintings on the east wall. The last supper on the left. The benedictory Christ. On the right side the supper of famous Abbot Guido of Arezzo

The bell tower of Pomposa Abbey

Day 18

After a relaxing evening with a pizza and "red" beer (kind of an Irish Guinness) and a comfortable night the breakfast table was quite heavy so I had to rest again :-) but now I'm going to start to Comacchio to see the flamingos 

Time to rest :-)

What means "ergonomics"? The weight is the challenge - with or without ergonomics ;-)

Wow 9 more kilos and 700 to pay for :-(

Sitting in front of a bar enjoying the morning Cappuccino an ads distributior came along and gave me this folder. First I thought wow must have ;-)

Day 17

After a sidestep it is: ab in den Süden :-) 

Marvelous Venice

Free space

AUSTRIA

Different interpretation

After Russia with its topic "railroad" and Danmark with "collaboration - sustainability - hyperloop" and USA with "The Wall - MEXUS - San Diego + Tijuana cooperation" and Israel's "Satus Quo a 150 year old understanding of 9 denominations" and after a rest I'll enter the Austrian pavillon. 

Free charge

FREESPACE

Crossing Canale di Malamocco

Bus on ferry - - from Chiogga to Venice.

Day 16

Visiting La Biennale Venezia 

My B&B

It looks like raining soon. And - believe it or not - it's actually raining :-)

Today's "detour"route with in the end 51 km.

Arrived at Chiogga the "Little Venice" where I will sleep twice.

Here the third river that flows into the sea. It is the Brenta and comes from Lago di Caldonazzo.

And a view back into the estuary mouth.

River Adige is greenish - river Po brownish.

Again I'll follow river Adige / Etsch to the sea :-)

Now I'm happy to see the bridge after a detour of 15 km. From my last accommodation there were only 10 meters to continue to the bike path on the other riverside. Anyway ;-)

I always was looking for a rice field. Now here it is :-)

Day 15

My room has 3 windows. Only one with a working mosquito net. So this window stood open the whole night and I got up by a wonderful twitter concert. Today I want to see also the Etsch's estuary mouth that is only 10 km bee line far from here. 

Today's tour from Borgo (green point at the left to Porto Levante at the estuary mouth of "Po Levante"

Now it smells like sea

I never understood the specie of bird watchers. But here within this ghostly landscape I stay and look and especially listen to the concert of thousands of birds.

I wish to have my canoe here to explore these uncountable waterways. Seems to be a labyrinth.

The highway has ended :-( so I have to climb up to see all the water amid I am :-)

I will take "via delle Valli" criss-cross through the delta

Forerunners of the sea

Corn fields to PV plants

Simple irrigation

Not allone anymore - hope this flower bike will accompany us ;-)

Breakfast in "my" tiny house :-)

Day 14

Today I should see the meditarian sea :-) 

Parla Italiana

Today I booked a whole house for me ;-) but it was cheaper than one room. 

To get access to the house was a bit tricky because there was nobody at the house. As I saw the key box hanging on the fence I understood and called Mrs Paola. Of course she didn't speak any English. Although my Italian contains only few words especially to get sth to eat and drink, I opened the key box and opened 3 doors. Because the clouds were looking dark and heavy I tried to get sth to eat and drove to downtown ;-) to a pizzeria but an older lady told me the oven will be fired not until 7 pm so I would have to wait for one and a half hour. So I took the bike and drove through the village and found a grocery store. But there I got no cheese only a tomato some spaghetti and pesto. Back at home I cooked and enjoyed the meal :-) now I am laying on my bed window open and enjoy the quiet. 

Todays tour: from Ferrara to little village Papozze.

At the first and only bridge in today's tour I switched over to the left side at village Ro.

The corn harvester at work.

As you see this bike path is EuroVelo Nr 8. This bike path is 5.888 km long starts in Cadiz, Spain and ends in Cyprus :-)

Day 13

Breakfast at Pizza della Cattedrale watching the madding crowd. It's quite busy but no hurry to see. So many bicycles! A young boy standing on his father's bicycle rack holding his father's shoulders. 

Only the Carabinieri are using their cars. 

 

Today I have to go on "Po destra" because the bridge is closed from today on. But there should be no difference. 

Pretty warm ;-)

The Palazzo showed an exhibition of mostly Ferraresian paintings. Here "The Laugh" by Umberto Boccioni. Subject of the exhibition were the new scientific insights of the ending 19th and beginning 20th century especially the new understanding of psyche for example by Sigmund Freud.

Palazzo dei Diamanti - made of 12.600 marble cubes

Day 12

Another resting day at a hotel at Ferrara doing some sightseeing. Yesterday my knee started to hurt a bit. So I try to be careful on it :-) 

Castello Estense at Ferrara

Rest at the riverside

This was a wonderful place to rest. It was pretty warm and gave me feeling to be upon river Po. The sullen river let me think on Vasudeva the ferry man in Hermann Hesse's novel Siddhartha :-) 

 

This day temperature was perfect for me. Almost 30 degrees centigrade. That's really perfect! 

 

Also Äol was on my side. Most time I had tailwinds. 

Most of the grain fields look like this. Whether rye or wheat eth destroyed. Only mais is okay.

As you can see today the bike path again perfect. There are bike baths on both sides of the river and as you can see I am on the left side. The bike path is a highway in the best sense of this word cause it is about 10 meters above the fields at the left and also approximately 10 meters above the river on its right.

Breakfast in this marvelous garden under the Magnolia :-) first in my life I saw tiger mosquitoes. Their bites are as nasty as the bites from other mosquitoes. According to my host they don't cause dengue fever as they do in costa rica.

Day 11

The night at La Magnolia was pretty good. I slept very well. The house is elegantly refurbished. 

My bicycle's parking space for this night at Ostiglia :-) I gave it a shower to clean it from lots of today's mud. It seems another bike path area to come: much less trail signs so I had some detours. More than the half of the paths were dirt roads. And as mentioned before last night was lots of rain so this dirt roads were still dirty ;-) todays plan was to sleep at the riverside in the tent. But I decided for a room because of the dark clouds.

Here he is :-) huge, majestic and sullen.

Day 10

After another night in the gallery I started to see the Po. This night was pretty loud because of thunderstorm. On the paths and around I see lots of rainwater. 

About 500 years later Andreas Hofer was executed in Mantua as every Tyrolean sings.

Also younger than 20, aged 13 - 14 was poor Romeo when he was banished in the 14th century to Mantua after he had took Tybalt's life.

The "lovers of Valdaro" buried 6000 years ago. They were found in 2007. "lovers embrace". No older than 20.

Love and death

In the following chronological order three special stories of love and death with reference to Mantua. 

And here the Aperitivo "Caravatti" - delicious :-)

153 years of Mr Caravatti

A Maria theresia's portrait from "Biblioteca Teresiana"

Gallery 3

Gallery 2

Gallery 1

Day 9

My accommodation is located in downtown Mantua in a medieval building. My host is a very elegant Signora and the flat is a gallery too. It was time to build some more or less understandable words from my limited word pool ;-) 

My order was: tutto corto. The barber worked radically ;-)

Looks like a lake - river Mincio surrounding Mantua on three sides.

Water channels

They are everywhere and ideally for bikers. You can drive on top of a wall water at the left side and at the other. The farmers have created a sophisticated system. It's comparable to the ancient "falas" system in Oman as I saw last November. But the system here is much more industrialized and efficient. 

Farmland

As far as I can see: water and farmland. The corn/mais already about 2 meters high. Seeing corn means polenta production. But opening my nostrils the second use of the corn is obviously: prosciutto ;-) 

Looks like Niagara falls with a prosciutto factory.

Pretty nice place to rest and eat.

Swans on river Mincio

Day 8

After a comfortable night and nice breakfast I left valeggio to get to Mantua. 

Of course these "skins" are unbelievable thin so they melt gently within the mouth - absolutely delicious!

Ups where is the exit?

Lonesome one and its photographer

Turtle Island

Toscany?

The little lily water

Giardino Sigurt`a

... Leave after a short meditation :-)

Enter....

Festa del Nodo d'Amore

https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valeggio_sul_Mincio?wprov=sfla1

There is a lot of information to find on Wikipedia. 

A Valeggio the birth of tortellini refers to an ancient medieval legend, called “Il Nodo d’Amore”, the love knot. Every year, the second Tuesday of June, in Valeggio there is the “Festa del Nodo d'Amore” and in the nearby town of Borghetto, on the ancient Visconti Bridge, is prepared with a long table, attended by thousands of people and where the menu it is strictly "tortellini of Valeggio."

 Ich 

Thx to Rudi Federspiel

It could be a quarter of a century ago that he made Valeggio known in Tyrol for its tortellini tradition. Passing this place I decided to stay here for a night and start a tortellini investigation ;-) 

City of Tortellini :-) look at the second partner city!

Modern agriculture - organic?

Green like river Inn ;-)

Nice bike path along river Mincio

Peschiera 3

Peschiera 2

Peschiera 1

Arriving at Peschiera

Here I paused with a bath in the lake Garda. Should be about 21 centigrade.

Day 7

After breakfast I started slowly and had the first Cappuccino after 2 km at cisano. 

Lago di Garda bike path 2021

https://siviaggia.it/viaggi/foto/italia-pista-ciclabile-lago-garda-piu-spettacolare-europa/173013/

They propose Europe's most spectacular bike path circumnavigate the whole lake in 140 km. With passages directly above the water. Should be available in 2021. 

A late sunset at Bardolino

Hurra, Lago di Garda again - - soon arriving at Bardolino finishing a 75-km-ride

This Wind power plant was quite loud but absorbed all the wind from the bike path so I could relax ;-)

Pretty nice bike path around Affi

Destiny

Cause of the thunderstorm I could not eat sth. In a pretty small village I saw a shelter at a bus stop put of my wind-stopper jacket turned it inside out cause the inside was the wetter on ;-) put out my bread, cheese and tomatoes and started to eat immediately. Even then I realized that I was amid a roadworks. Cause of the rain the street was mud flooded. Not that much but a few elderly men with their rubber boots were working and their elderly spouses were looking at and admiring them ;-) in the middle of the mud and working I saw a vineyard snail. I stopped the eager work by crying and but the snail into my empty tomato packing and said to the worker: asporto a campagna. He understood and supported my doing. Well, on the one hand I saved the snail's life but on the other hand I was playing destiny ;-) 

The storm is over :-)

Thunderstorm

For a long time I saw these heavy and dark clouds hanging in front of me filling the whole gorge-like valley. So I knew what was going to come. At about Ala the clouds opened and heavy rain in connection with heavy gusts of wind, flashes and rolling thunder. It was really fantastic! Similar to this year's Föhn experience on patscher kofel. I was well prepared so was warm and dry and could concentrate on holding the bike's balance. After about 5 km this challenge was done :-) 

Route 66 ;-)

Back to river adige at Mori/Rovereto

Life test ;-)

At Mori: here is the rain ;-) siting in a bar and trying to unterstand "la Repubblica" and its headline: "Europa, il fantasma dell'Italexit".

The climb from Torbole to Nago (about 200 m) is done. The clouds predicts rain!?

Es dräut die Nacht am Lager unsrer Küsse.

An alternative bike path

Helpful guys at a bike shop recommended to take the bike path over Nago and Mori - - so I did :-) 

How to get one of these tiny little canoes ;-)

Day 6

This night was comfortably and warm in the hotel. I got up hard fell asleep again and again. But I had to get up to catch the ship at 09:25 to come to the south of Lake Garda as I checked out on the timetable. Now here at the boat station I've won lots of time ;-) the boats engine strikes today. What to do now? Gardesana occidental for a byciclist is like committing suicide. Gardesana oriental is only half a suicide....

Riva Porto 3

Riva Porto 2

Riva Porto 1

Arrived at Riva del Garda after a quite nice 40-km-ride

Village Dro

Lago di Cadine

Landscape - silence, peace, birds, chickens and a cyclist

View from Lon to Lago di Garda

Bye bye :-) pretty nice campsite

Golden hour :-)

1 day to rest

Today I decided to stay here to enjoy this wonderful place and the sleeping place within Martin's van some aperol some pizza and some beer :-) 

Yesterday to come to Monte Terlago

The plan was to take a bus up to Monte Terlago cause I was in a doubt whether I would be able to do this 500 meters up. But on my way to Trento I decided to go up by bike. First I drove up to so called Montevideo bus station. To get there I had to push the bicycle for about 200 meters very steep. At the bus stop it was clear to take the bus cause going by bike was forbidden on this highway (SS45). So I took the bus to the next village Cadine. At the next village, Terlago I bought bread, cheese and 1 tomato for snack. After leaving the shop, big surprise, Martin stood in front of me :-) 

Marvelous Lago di Lamar

Arrived at Monte Terlago to meet friend Martin :-)

Forgotten the chains :-(

Lago di Terlago

Taking the bus to Cadine :-)

Hours later ;-)

Everyone is on the way :-)

Bike path misused ;-)

Third day to start

After a wonderful time with Vera and Ale and a relaxing night at their flat I am going to start through the vineyards with lots of sun - its Italy of course :-) 

Somthing new:

From now on I change the direction: the new pics and infos I'll insert at the top so you don't have to scroll down :-) 

Starting tomorrow!

Ready to go :-)

Departure :-)

Thx Christl for the last respectively first pic ;-) 

Franzensfeste

Light on the end of the tunnel

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Gorge franzensfeste

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Pause needed

Under a walnut tree

After 45 km I take my first rest today at Aicha next to Brixen. It is a pretty nice place at the vineyards. 

Brixen - espresso rest

One of the famous churches at Brixen.

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Monestery Klausen

Famous Benedictine abbey

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Trostburg

Castle of comfort ;-)

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Dolomite

Bike - river - highway - Dolomiti

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First day

Quite nervous at the beginning I drove 103 km today from brennero to Bolzano. I am really surprised cause my upper limit is 50 per day. So I feel really good! My host is a really nice person, a free Lancer at Bolzano University for design and arts and we had a lot to talk. The bike path is well prepared and sophisticated. First using the the former railway path and also at the end next to Bolzano with lots of tunnels. The weather was warm and sunny later cloudy but it didn't rain. After a veneziano at walthers live is fine and I will sleep soon. 

Brenner former railway path

Patriotic feelings

Von Siegmundskron der etsch entlang bis... 

Second day

View from hotel Cafe Citta

... Starts like the first ended with breakfast at piazza Walther. After a comfortable night at a warmshowers.org host I got up hard but now after first Cappuccino the day looks pretty sunny and gets really sunny after thick clouds 1 hour ago. 

... Der etsch entlang....

Of course - should not happen :-(

Nice resting place with fresh water

Castello di salorno

Also called: Haderburg sounds like Halderburg ;-)

... bis zur Salurner Klaus!

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Spectacular cloud - time to leave.